Sunday, April 29, 2012

2010 Giesta Dao


The last time I recall having a Portuguese wine, I was at the Portuguese embassy,and more than a little hammered (true story).  That was back in the early 2000’s, and I was there for a port tasting.  After several hours of trying all the ports the great houses had to offer (and cementing eternally my love for a 20 year tawny port), the Ambassador himself came down to mingle with the guests. After mingling for a while he said a few words about Portugal, their wine industries and then opened some wine for us to try.  A grand night, and an experience I will never forget.  Unfortunately for this story, that evening was quite a bit more interesting than the wine I am about to tell you about.  

The wine is somewhat of a non-event.  Normally I like wines, or I dislike them, usually with more than a few degrees of emotion.  Sadly, this wine elicits none of that from me.  I was excited when I first poured it, the color having a bit of brickness to it, and falling on the more red, than purple side of things.  And perhaps that might be where it really fell down for me, the taste was nothing like what my eyes had already conjured....I was imagining old world wines, with a mystery and complexity that I would spend the evening unravelling on sip at a time.

This was not to be, for the wine was fairly upfront, and fully of cherry.  I don't mind a bit of fruit here or there, but when I see a nice red wine, tantalized with the knowledge that its a blend of three different grapes, I tend to expect more.  And thus the failure, it’s not a bad wine, it’s just not a great one.  Once you work through the initial impressions, you find that there isn’t too much else to it.  As I think about describing the body, the finish, the complexity the only adjectives that come to mind are medium, moderate, middling and mediocre.  While I could certainly continue documenting its lack of interest further, but that would only be serving as an excuse to find how many more alliterations I could use, having developed a sudden fondness for them.  A fondness  that surely was developed by the hole in my affections left by this vintage.

2010 Giesta Dao

I was at a conference last week and met a few wine-loving folks while there. After talking with them about wine and enjoying a fantastic dinner at Shula’s Steak House, I was inspired to review another wine. We have a handful of bottles marked for review and tonight the figurative spin of the wheel led us to open the 2010 Giesta Dao from Portugal.

The facts:

2010 Giesta Dao
Variety: 32% Touriga-Nacional, 45% Tinta-Roriz (Tempranillo), and 23% Jaen

Region: Portugal
Winemaker: Nuno Cancela de Abreu



My take

The nosy is a spicy reddish purple. In a way, I’d say the nose is somewhat misleading. I didn’t get purple when tasting this one (and for me that’s a good thing), but the more the wine opens up, the less spicy it gets. What you do get is a full-bodied, juicy (dare I say chewy?) wine that feels rather new-world in terms of style. You get a burst of pinkish red fruit up front (that’s the new world I’m talking about) with a bit of spicyness in the middle, and a relatively long finish. The wine is not at all dry. To the contrary, it’s rather silky smooth going down.

In the end, it’s not overly interesting, but not one-note or boring either. It’s a bit too new world style for my palate. I’d prefer less up front fullness and a little more complexity in the range of flavors. That being said, if you like a new world style wine with a velvety texture, then this one might just hit the spot.

Price Point:
$13 a bottle

Sunday, January 29, 2012

2009 Mario Ercolino Saserello



“It was a dark and stormy night...”

Was my recommendation to Kerri when she said she didn't know how to begin her review. Technically, it was a classic starting line, sure to please even the most erudite of readers. Given Snoopy’s predilection for the phrase, I fail to see how it could not be a winner. Unsurprisingly, she spurned my suggestion. Luckily for her, she had already made copious notes of her initial impressions, and luckily for me, I’ve already had this wine before.

We got the Saserello from our Zagat wine club shipment, which is usually kind enough to send us at least two of everything (except for the El Bombero, which sadly is a different story...grrrrr). With two bottles in the fridge, I had tried it a couple of nights before, and absolutely loved it, minus the pairing with red sauce. And when raving about my devotion to this beverage to Kerri, she suggested we pick back up the mantle of faithful bloggers and do a full review. However, this time paying attention to what we paired it with, as to make the most of it. Which can only mean one thing:

Steak. Two of them, to be exact, each weighing in at damn near 1 lb. (does my wife rock or what?)

Steaks grilled, potatoes roasted in the oven, we sat down to the serious task of grading wines for general consumption. In our (well...my) second meeting, the Saserello far outpaced the joy it provided on our first encounter. I came away with much the same opinion that I did after the first bottle. Namely, that this is simply a wonderful wine, one well suited for day to day drinking. It’s a thick lush wine, full bodied with each mouthful bringing a rich smoothness that I wouldn’t normally expect from a bigger wine. The wine is fantastic on its own, prompting hedonistic consumption without accompaniment, yet it manages to shine even more brightly when matched up with a nice medium rare New York strip.

When I found out it retails in the $10-15 range I was honestly surprised. Don’t tell Concannon, but there might be a new house red. Run out and buy two.

2009 Mario Ercolino Saserello

Upon stating that I didn’t know what to write, Jonathan told me I should start with something like It was a dark and stormy night.... Then he promptly told me he had dibs on that intro. So I’m back to not knowing how to start the story on this one. Apparently I had a little too much wine too quickly this evening. ;)

So I guess I’ll just get to the gist of it. We recently joined a new wine club to try something different. We now get a case of wine 4 times a year from the Zagat Wine Club and this came from our most recent case.

The facts:

2009 Mario Ercolino Saserello
Variety: 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 25% Sangiovese, 25% Syrah

Region: Sicilia, Italy
Winemaker: Mario Ercolino



My take

The nose is red with an earthy touch, but without being too brown. Before eating anything, the wine is spicy and full up front (but not in an overwhelming way) with a good range of flavors. This wine struck me as fairly complex – more complex than I expected from a wine club wine. (Perhaps my expectations are too low?) The spice carries through the middle and then ends with a dry finish.

All that being said, if you’re a red meat eater – try this wine with steak. The bottle itself suggests it pairs well with “richly flavoured dishes such as steak with a peppercorn sauce, slow-cooked venison with juniper and full-flavoured cheeses” and it lives up to those claims (at least as far as a peppery steak is concerned). The peppery steak took the edge right off the dry and deepened the flavors. I still got spice in the front and middle, but with the meat, the wine rounded out in a dark purple red for a smooth, long finish.

This is one I would definitely buy again. Two bottles came with our wine club shipment and they’re already gone. For the price point, this could easily be a go-to wine that you keep on hand for a good steak dinner without breaking the bank.

Price Point: $12.00 a bottle

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

2007 Veleta Nolados

We had this wine at the 2011 International Wine Expo back in February. We bought a few bottles at the time and saved one to review. I’ve been looking forward to opening the last bottle, so when we talked about reviewing a wine tonight, I knew exactly what I was going for.

The facts:

2007 Veleta Nolados
Variety: 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, 20% Tempranillo

Region: Granada, Spain
Aging: 12 months in American and French oak



My take

In a way, I get dark purple and light pink on the nose. I find that surprising and don’t really know how to process that; not sure what to expect.

As for the flavor..., It’s difficult to get it’s full measure quickly. To borrow a phrase from Jonathan, this is one I want to get to know.

I’d say it tastes like a blend. It has a lightness from the Cab Franc and added complexity from the Cab Sauv. There is definitely a range of flavors, but I can’t seem to pinpoint its character. It’s not hugely complex with a wide array of flavors, but it’s not one note either. There is some spiciness in the front and the middle. And it has a relatively long finish. The texture is great - It has a full, creamy/velvety, soft texture to it.

Overall, the Veleta Nolados has a bigger and bolder profile than I’m used to drinking, but I rather enjoy it. It’s very well balanced, easy to drink, with a nice mouthfeel (yes, I just said “mouthfeel”), and a range of flavors. I only wish I had more.

Price Point: Updated 8/18/2011

When an internet search yielded no US stores selling this wine, I emailed the winery about their availability in the U.S. They responded immediately putting me in touch with their U.S. distributor in Virginia, Andes Importers, Inc. They were very helpful and quick to respond as well.

If you're in the DC metro area, Andes Importers works with Arrowine, Red, White and Bleu, Wine House, and Unwined. While the Veleta Nolados may not be on the shelves at those stores, I'd suggest mentioning Andes Importers and see if they'll put in a special order for you. I know I will.

If you're not in the DC area, contact Andes Importers directly - they'll be happy to tell you if there are stores in your area that might special order from them. And the more interest we can drum up in this wine, the better!

2007 Veleta Nolados

This one has been a long time coming, for multiple reasons. Its been a while since we have posted a review, and we ran into this wine back at the DC international wine expo in February.

This was one of the first years that they have been selling wine at the expo, and luckily for us, this is one of the ones they were stocking. Tasting and buying wines at a large scale wine event is always a bit dodgy; your taste buds (and level) can get shot pretty quickly and more often than not, everything is tasty after a certain point. Regardless of that, the Nolados made enough of an impression on us for us to scoop up three bottles, of which only one was remaining. That lone bottle was saved for you dear friends, and tonight seemed the night that we should record our thoughts of it for posterity.

“So, how is it?” you might ask. Terrible with grilled chicken and potatoes with a Mexican cheese blend would be the first answer. While I have never really been big into food pairings, I think it’s safe to say that particular combination was terrible, and will largely remain un-described with the exception of the phrase “terrible, tannic, and how did I already plow through two bottles of this and think this was still a good idea?”

The answer was cheese, a good cabot. It cleansed the palette, was yummy, and frankly I was still hungry, so needed a quick post dinner snack to set me straight and appreciate the wine. With the cheese down I set about to drinking (a noble pursuit if there ever was one) and getting the full measure of this wine (for the third time). Given the multiple bouts I’ve gone with the Nolados, I think its safe to say its pretty good. It's got an extremely long finish, in fact it's long enough that it might actually rival the movie Contact for length, and yet exceed it for interest level. While the wine is indeed interesting, the sensation is a bit narrow in range, with the flavors being well defined, if not overly broad. It comes across not quite velvety, but lets call it veloury, which while totally not a word…is still fun to throw out there.

Final verdict. Buy a bottle. It’s an enjoyable romp, the kind that makes you want to stretch into two bottles in a single stretch. I’ve been through a quarter case now (obviously not in one sitting… What kind of lush do you take me for?) and will be keeping an eye out for it on menus wherever I travel.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Tempra Tantrum

Trifecta…triple threat.. hat trick

So we decided that we would try a full suite of wines and review them as an entirety. So it’s the Tempra Tantrum wines from Spain, with each being a tempranillo blend. We’ve had them for a while now wanting to do this, but as you have probably guessed by the flurry of recent updates, we just haven’t really had the time to get around to reviewing wines (jokes….I make them).

Grenache/Tempranillo

Going into this, I had assumed this was likely to be my favorite. For the record I was terribly terribly wrong about that that. I had originally planned to equate both the taste and the smell of this wine to dirty socks, at which point I received an injunction from the sock lobby preventing me from making said comparison. Instead I shall liken it to gym clothes. The nose is just off and the flavor isn’t much better. The wine is flat, and while it has a long finish, you almost wish it doesn’t.

Shiraz/Tempranillo

Well…pinch me I am dreaming. The star of this show is the wine statistically speaking the one I am the least likely to pick out of a lineup. While I am a sucker for a petit syrah odds are I tend to start spouting incredibly pejorative things anytime the word shiraz is used in my presence. While it does have some larger than life characteristics, notably that somewhat jammy jam that comes with the territory, I found this to be the softest on the palette, almost like a gentle misting of flavor on the tongue (For the record: if that sounded like I was waxing poetic about a shiraz I will deny it in court). To its detriment, the finish is somewhat short, and the wine is a bit one note, but if complexity is not your destination, then this will certainly serve as a pleasant distraction.

Cabernet/Tempranillo

While I enjoyed the shiraz blend the most, this one I will crown the best wine (given the usually measures). I feel like it had depth, complexity and character. The cabernet had all the structure and body that the tempranillo was lacking, the nose was pleasant and the finish was about where you expected it to be. It’s a good solid functional wine, but despite all of its merits, it was somehow lacking in soul for me. Oddly, this is where all the quality in the world breaks down…I’d rather have an interesting wine, even if its flawed, rather than just a good one.

So what’s the bottom line? I’d probably pass on all three of these wines in the future. They aren’t that good, and I’m glad I don’t know what we paid for them. It was a fun experiment, and now that I’m done writing, odds are I am pouring a full glass of the Shiraz.

2008 Tempra Tantrum (Tempranillo Blends)

Well, since we haven’t done a review in 3 months, we decided to give you a 3-fer (or is that 3-for?). I can’t believe we’re opening 3 bottles of wine for the 2 of us on a Sunday evening, but hey…, it’s all for the cause.

Here are the facts:

2008 Tempra Tantrum Tempranillo/Grenache
Variety: 60% Tempranillo, 40% Grenache

2008 Tempra Tantrum Tempranillo/Shiraz
Variety: 60% Tempranillo, 40% Shiraz

2008 Tempra Tantrum Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon
Variety: 60% Tempranillo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon

Region: Tierra de Castilla, Spain
Aging: Micro-oxygenation
Winemaker: Rocío Osborne


My take
Tempranillo/Grenache

I would describe the nose on this as pinkish-purple. The taste and feel - I’m having a hard time describing the taste; the feel is easier. It’s a bit juicy, but not chewy. It has a round, full flavor up front with a hint of spice in the middle, and a moderately long finish (not short, but not long either). However, there’s not a lot of complexity in this wine. (Of course, for the price point, complexity isn’t something I’d expect.) It’s a bit dry as well.

This wine was fine as a sipping wine and might accompany food just fine, but in my opinion, it does not go well with grilled pork that has a southwestern flavor to it. Once I introduced the grilled pork to the picture, the wine turned purple and ashy.

Now, on to the...

Tempranillo/Shiraz

The nose on this is reddish; it brings strawberry to mind. The taste – a bit on the alcoholy side. Without food, it’s a bit chewy at first, then it falls flat. It’s short and feels like there’s no middle to it. This strikes me as new world in style – big and fruity. I just wish there were more going on.

The southwestern grilled pork we had for dinner actually made this wine fuller and extended the life of it in my mouth. Without food, this was my least favorite of the three. With the pork, this was my favorite. Just goes to show you how your experience of a wine can change given circumstances!

Tempranillo/Cab Sauv

The nose on this smells purple-black and a little green. It tastes much the same – rather dark purple and it definitely has some of that musty dampness to it that I love (that’s what I smell as green). This is the driest of all three, but not in a suck-your-mouth-dry-I-desperately-need-a-drink-of-water kind of way.

Again, after introducing the southwestern grilled pork, this wine turns ashy and unpleasant. Without the pork, this was by far my favorite. With the pork, it’s not the wine I’m reaching for.

If you want more info on the wine, vineyard, etc., check out their website at www.tempratantrum.com. They also make a Tempranillo/Merlot blend that I didn't pick up because I figured 3 was enough. :)

Price Point: Between $7 and $10 per bottle.

Saturday, October 9, 2010

2007 Dry Creek Heritage Zinfandel

I’ve been trying to give Cali wines a chance. Honestly I have. But with the exception of some wines from the Russian river valley, I haven’t been having too terribly much luck. Alas dear readers, the wine we are reviewing for you tonight again drives me back to the old world, forever forcing me to besmirch the good name of wineries in California along the way.

The Dry Creek Heritage Zinfandel reminds me of too many movies that are coming out these days. You watch the trailer (smell the wine) are intrigued and excited by what they have shown you (the nose is strong and vibrant, promising unspeakable heights of wineology). And, as such, lured to the theater (actually having a glass), where it suddenly seems flat and two dimensional, as if they somehow managed to edit down the only good parts of the movie for the trailer (or…the nose was the only noteworthy part of the wine).

The problem for me is that it's not bad per say, but rather it's boring. The nose is fantastic, lush, ripe, and promising of delights, but the wine itself is a bit flat and forgettable. The steak we had perked it up a bit, but in all honesty, that was probably just the joy from a solid well cooked bone-in NY strip elevating the wine. In remarking on it, probably the most telling statement was when I looked at Kerri and said “this wine doesn’t even have the decency to punch you in the mouth with fruit like the rest of its west coast brethren”.

All and all, I am going to give this one a pass. At $15-20 there are much better wines out there to go have (and much better Zinfandels for that matter (Redemption Zin…I am looking in your general direction).

Meh.

2007 Dry Creek Vineyard Heritage Zinfandel

The facts:
2007 Dry Creek Vineyard Heritage Zinfandel
Region: Sonoma County, California
Variety: 87% Zinfandel, 13% Petite Syrah
Aging: 9 months in American and French oak (39% new oak)


(photo courtesy of www.drycreekvineyard.com)

My take:

Given that this is a California Zin, I expected it to be big and bold – and it delivered (though not in a punch you in the mouth kind of way). I also liked it more than I expected, given my penchant for old world style wines.

The wine looks dark red in the glass. It smells spicy and big with hints of green pepper on the nose. I’d say it smells dark red to purple. It pretty much tastes the same way – dark red to purple. It’s big up front with a good bit of spiciness in the middle. And it’s definitely dry. It’s drier and spicier if you pull air over it.

We tasted this wine with a small range of cheeses and red meat, all of which changed the character of the wine to varying extents. A reserve gouda (not particularly aged or smoked) completely erased the spice and the complexity of the wine. I thought the gouda made the wine dull and rather creamy in texture. A manchego dulled the spice a bit (not completely) and made the flavor much more grapey (read purple). Finally (my favorite with this wine), a garlic and spice boursin mellowed the dryness, but still left you with a range of flavors and a good bit of spice in the middle. And the wine was quite good with red meat. The effect of the red meat was similar to the boursin, for me.

Somewhat to my surprise, I rather enjoyed this wine and would definitely have it again.

Price point: An internet search found this one anywhere from $12.99 to $19.49.