2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon - reviewed by Kerri

The facts:

2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon
Region: Morgon, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France
Variety: 100% Gamay

My take:

It smells rosy before swirling, then… I get that smell that’s not paint thinner, not nail polish remover, not metallic, but burns my nose a bit – plain ole alcohol I guess.

After taking the first sip, I remarked, this is weird.

I let it sit in my mouth, swished it around a bit and got almost nothing until I swallowed. It’s very light – both in taste and feel. It tastes somewhat purpley-pink, maybe light red. It feels light up front with a little more depth in the middle, where you can feel your taste buds perking up (going, what’s this?) and a strange finish that is almost creamy in texture. I’m not sure I’m a fan of that creamy finish. I find myself taking my tongue around my gums to get rid of the creaminess in a way. (Apologies if that’s TMI.)

After swirling and smelling the wine, I expected it to taste a bit harsh and acidic, but I don’t get any of that. I don’t get any of that alcohol-y sense in the taste, only in the smell. I’m having a hard time describing what it is, but I find that I want more, perhaps just in an effort to define it, to nail down its essence, to figure out if I like it or not.

I sipped some more and then started eating dinner – nothing fancy, but something I’m sure lots of people have in their kitchen: chicken nuggets. (Neither one of us felt inclined to cook a full-on dinner tonight and opted to take the easy way out. But that's a different talk show.)

I discovered that I was more interested in the wine when not eating. Once I started eating, the wine became even creamier in texture, which I didn’t care for. That’s a texture I expect in a white wine, not a red, and it’s not one I like in white wines either.

To be fair, I tried a few different things to see if I liked the wine better with something else... manchego cheese, cheddar cheese, wheat thins, kalamata olives.... The only thing that seemed to cut the creaminess were the olives. In fact, the olives actually extended the finish on this wine.

Now, this is 100% gamay and I don’t have much experience drinking gamay. Perhaps this is a great expression of gamay; I couldn’t say. Other write-ups about this wine and the winemakers (Marcel Lapierre and Jules Cauvet) indicate this wine is made from organically grown grapes, using modern techniques, with no additives. Admirable - yes. Did it pan out in this case? For me, no, but only you can say whether or not it works for you.

All in all, it’s not my favorite wine, but it is intriguing. If you’re looking for a light red to sip in the summer, this might just fit the bill, especially if you like creamy textured wines. Personally, I don’t like that texture, but i still find myself going back for another glass and I don’t do that with all wines. (I’ve been known to open a bottle, take a sip, and be perfectly willing to pour the $20 down the drain.)

Price point:

We got this wine through a wine club where we pay a flat fee per month, but a quick internet search revealed bottles available for between $14 and $20.

2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon

Frenchy French…that’s the call.

When we were looking for a wine to drink tonight, three candidates came to mind a tempranillo, a super Tuscan, and the frenchy French wine. (2007 Marcel Lapierre Morgon for those of you who demand proper accrediting and naming).

Its always fun to open a French wine, there aren’t usually a lot of details on the label, its not always clear what’s in it and this one had a wax dipped top. Bonus! Now that wax dipped top might look nice and all, but frankly, its just a pain in the ass when you are trying to get the thing open. Don’t get me wrong here…. I’m not calling for a screw top revolution, but hey…a foil covered cork just works. It satisfies the ritual elements of opening the wine, without too much hassle, it’s just a nice balance. Yes, yes…tangents, I know.

After going down to the garage for a sawzall, blowtorch and the Jaws of Life to free the cork from its wax tomb, we were ready to pour. Hi, first shock of the night, this wine was a very very light red.

“Is this a rose?” I asked
“I don’t think so” she replied

It’s a tarp!

Ok…ok.. It’s not a rose, its just so damned light it would make a pinot look like a cab. While light, it’s certainly got the distinct brown hue typical of French wines, ready to get to drinking, I raised the glass and swirled. The nose left a lot to be desired, well…that’s assuming that you don’t find the smell of pure rubbing alcohol a pleasant aroma for a wine. The heavy chemical scent aside, the nose was short, without many of the typical fruit flavors, perhaps a slight smoky and earthy nose.

Time for the drinking. Well, dear readers, for the second week in a row, you have been spared from me writing sonnets. It’s interesting; I’ll give it that. Good? Sure…great? Not really. The nose followed through to the pallet, it’s a bit heavy on the alcohol (Yes, I am aware of the irony of me complaining about that, thanks). Past that is where it starts to get interesting. It has that undeniable French mystique that certain “je ne sais quoi”. We actually crushed the bottle of wine in our effort to take its full measure.

It's smooth, it's pleasant on the palette and it's very light on the tannins. I’m not sure I would go out and order it again, but I don’t feel like this research was in vain. If you want an odd wine, and don’t mind turpentine, I’d say give it a go, but honestly there are better things out there to drink. The only caveat to that I have is this; I would love to find an older version of this wine. I think with maturity it might just have enough going on to move it from nondescript to more please.

Pairing note: Smoked Gouda Grilled cheese sammich and tater tots.